Tuesday, March 5, 2013

My Least Favorite Traveling Buddy

In 1997 I took the overnight train from Rome to Paris - rocking back and forth the entire night - and I had my first serious bout with vertigo. When standing still I would suddenly feel like I was standing at the precipice of a cliff. Often while walking I would bump into others because although I felt as though I was walking in a straight line, I was actually walking diagonally. This was annoying (and scary when I almost fell through the plate glass shower door), but it didn't prevent me from enjoying Rome.

Almost 10 years later I traveled back to Italy to spend a week celebrating my mother's 60th birthday with my family. This time the vertigo started with a feeling of mild motion sickness, but really knocked me out with major nausea after I returned home. I recall feeling sick for an entire week - not fun.

Before I left for India last month I prepared for flu, tetanus, diphtheria, pertussis, typhoid, Hepatitis A, malaria, nausea, anxiety and Delhi Belly. It's easy to see why I thought I was prepared for everything. It wasn't until the morning of my departure that AZ & I recalled my extreme nausea from vertigo after the 2005 Italy trip. I couldn't believe that I'd forgotten about that, but there was still time to pack decongestant for the flights.

While in India I never experienced any dizziness and I only felt nauseated on the afternoon of my arrival. I did catch the nasty head cold that was consuming the entire nation. I tried to eliminate all of my congestion before it came time to return to the States, but it was an especially bad cold.

It appears that the nasty vertigo is back. I haven't experienced dizziness or strange equilibrium issues, but less than 48 hours after my return I started feeling incredibly nauseated. Once it set in it really hasn't stopped. I made a doctor appointment for today due to my cold, but now I can't imagine riding all the way out to Santa Monica and back (a 30 minute ride, if that).

People say "cancer changes everything" and while I wish that wasn't my experience, so far it has. Surgery and chemotherapy completely changed my feelings about nausea. Every time I experience it I'm reminded of the last few chemo treatments and the isolation that nausea causes. Then that reminds me of the hell of treatment and I once again find myself wondering how this happened in the first place. It's a question I wish I would forget because I will never have an answer. Besides, this doesn't help alleviate the nausea.

I hope this goes away soon...

Monday, February 25, 2013

Mum Taj Mahal

Mum Taj Mahal

This is by far my most difficult post yet. How do I describe how it feels to visit the Taj Mahal? It's truly inexplicable. Some words that come to mind:

Awestruck
Amazed
Blessed
Fortunate
Peaceful
Inspired
Loved

As you probably know, the Taj Mahal is a mausoleum that a husband built to honor his favorite (third) wife. (She died after giving birth to their fourteenth child.) He gave his first two wives the gates to enter the monument, but reserved the rest for his favorite wife, whom he called "Mum Taj" (Beautiful Crown). 

I was not prepared for the way the building made me feel. It is the most extraordinary demonstration of love that I have ever seen. The entire structure, surrounding buildings and gardens were designed with a singular focus on grace and care. The Taj simply radiates love and devotion. 

We traveled to Agra by bus on Saturday. A Fresh Chapter Alliance Foundation partnered with G Adventures to provide us with an unforgettable experience. G Adventures' India CEO "Shazz" - aka Happy - was our phenomenal host for the weekend. (We miss him!) G Adventures hired Sanjay - aka Wisdom - an incredibly knowledgeable guide whose enthusiasm for all of the Agra sites was obvious and infectious.

After lunch at our hotel Saturday we visited Agra Fort, which was built by Akbar the Great, and which still serves as an Indian army post. The fort is a large, red, beautiful structure that has several beautiful gardens. As with the Taj (built by Akbar's grandson), every single aspect was carefully planned. Sanjay told us that in several places the gardens are divided in quarters. Each quarter is intended to represent the four liquids: water, wine, milk & honey.

We then traveled to a beach across the river from the Taj to watch the sunset. The Taj is so beautiful & the air here is often so misty that it didn't seem real. A short distance from the Taj is a crematorium. Fires were burning the entire time we were there. Sanjay cremated his father there last year, and he said a silent prayer. He said there's another location on the other side of the Taj where families scatter their loved ones' ashes in the river. (Although it isn't the Ganges, it is a tributary of that great river, so people view it the same as scattering ashes in the Ganges.)

After a buffet dinner at a five-star resort, we returned to our hotel for a short night's sleep. We all met in the lobby at 6 AM Sunday to head over to the Taj. After a quick bus ride we boarded beautifully decorated horse-drawn carriages to take us up to the Taj. (G Adventures thinks of EVERYTHING.) As for the Taj, I can't add more to what I said above. It's just so difficult to convey.

After the Taj we ate a big breakfast, cleaned up, then drove through an incredibly colorful Sunday market to Fatehpur Sukri - an abandoned city that Akbar the Great inhabited for several years. As Sanjay said, the Agra Fort is about power, the Taj Mahal is about love, and Fatehpur Sukri is about happiness. That was evident throughout the grounds (except the area around the mosque, which was difficult to enjoy due to the aggressive hawkers).

If you ever plan a trip to Delhi, I highly recommend a side trip to Agra. It took us three hours (with one stop) on a well developed highway. I hear it's easy to get there on the train.

I feel like I'm not doing this experience much justice, but I have an excuse: as of tomorrow I will have been sick for an entire week. All of the CCS volunteers are sick - as well as many locals - everyone is coughing wherever I go. That said, it's time for bed!

Wednesday, February 20, 2013

A Quintessential India Experience


A Quintessential India Experience
Today I had what I consider to be a quintessential India experience. We were scheduled to tour the National Museum with its former Director (this Cross Cultural Solutions Program is amazing), but it was canceled. (I hope it's rescheduled for next week - I would hate to miss it.) With the museum tour canceled we did what any self-respecting Westerners would do with a free afternoon: we went shopping.

I was excited for my first ride on the Delhi Metro. They sell single tokens for each ride. They rub the token on a pad that tells the chip in the token where it was purchased and its value (like the pads they rub books on when you purchase them to turn off the inventory control chip).

After we all purchased our tokens we went through the Ladies' metal detector, put our bags through the X-ray machine & then rubbed the tokens on a pad that opened the gates to allow you to enter the Metro. There was just one problem: my token didn't work. After several tries - and several big red X's on the entry screen - the gate wouldn't open. Ugh.

I returned to the window where I purchased my token. At this point there was a long line and several men were cutting the line.  So I did what any self-respecting Jersey Girl would do: I cut in front of all the men, and shoved my token through the window.  The response: "you have to go over there - to the Customer Care line."

Dejected, I joined that line. While waiting one man came up on my right to cut me off on line. Just before the person being helped was finished another man came up on my left to cut me off. Again, Jersey Girl in Delhi: as soon as the person in front of me was done I put my (bandaged) left arm up to block the more aggressive cutter on the left, then, as soon as he backed off, I switched to my right to cut off the first cutter. Just like that I was at the window, my token was fixed, I sailed back through security and the gates to join the rest of the group.

The subway is by far the nicest & cleanest I've ever seen. We only went two stops to the Dilli Haat Market. (We were advised to shop there because you have to pay to get in.) It was surprisingly quiet. Although the prices weren't as low as I anticipated, I think that's just because I'm much better at negotiating deals for my clients than I am for scarves, purses, etc.

Volunteering
The night after my placement orientation my lymphedema flared up again. I had to bandage myself for the first time since January. As a result, I haven't gone to my volunteer placement and I've been working with Jaagi to find a placement that doesn't involve using that arm and working in dirty places.

Tomorrow I'm meeting with the founder of a startup nonprofit. If she approves of me I will spend my time helping her build her program and devise a fundraising strategy. I'm hopeful this will work out as I've always wanted to do international nonprofit work. This nonprofit prepares children who have never gone to school to enter a school program (the government doesn't provide free schooling to all children). She also works with their laborer parents to teach them why it's important to educate their children. Wish me luck!

India History Lesson
Yesterday the Chair of the Jawahar Lal Nehru University Political Science Department came to give us a lesson on India and its political history. (Did I mention this program is amazing?) He talked for 2-1/2 hours but hey, we're in India.

Here are some choice items from this once-in-a-lifetime experience:

-In this part of the world, more people survive on accident than on purpose.

-Don't dismiss India's surprises as irrationalities. Whatever you generalize about India, the contrary will also be true.

-Any civilization that thinks it has nothing to learn from other nations is a dying civilization.

-Be careful when you generalize about the Indian population because there are so many people. 1% of the population is very rich, but 1% of the population of India is 13 million people, which is close to the populations of many European nations.

- If Cleopatra's nose has been 1/2" longer or shorter, the history of the world have been different because the Romans would have continued east to conquer India and Afghanistan. (Love this one!)

- Indian culture considers it very rude to refuse a request for asylum.

- After the 1857 rebellion the British Parliament took over managing India from the British East India Company. The British government established universities that educated Indians about Western liberal thought, which then led to the ultimate demise of British rule in India. (Perhaps that's why this government doesn't provide universal education to its youth?)

- India's greatest achievement is that it has survived as a secular democracy. (It is pretty amazing.)

- India is home to the world's largest number of "absolute poor" - more than Sub-Saharan Africa.

- The Indian state was created through nonviolence, but the country is now one of the most criminalizes states. (The woman managing the school I may assist wont apply for government grants due to the bribery & corruption. The newspapers are filled with horrible stories about rape and murder. From what I've gathered so far, most crimes are perpetrated against children.)

- The Indian court system has 30 million pending cases. 

Good luck with that.

Monday, February 18, 2013

Second Anniversary - Incredible India


Cancer diagnosis
Today is the second anniversary of my Stage IIB breast cancer diagnosis. It truly feels like another life. In the two months leading up to that day, we were:

-planning our Labor Day wedding at Stanford
-wondering which exotic locale we would visit on our extended honeymoon
- traveling to Cabo San Lucas, Miami and Ft. Lauderdale within two months' time
-finding a weekend that worked for me and Las Madrinas (Jenn and Tara) to plan a shower/bachelorette
-buying a wedding dress that I picked up days before diagnosis, and which still hangs in its bag in my closet
-hell, even setting up this blog so Angel and I could regularly share our ideas, comings, goings, recipes, wines and anything else we fancied

When I look back on that time it doesn't seem like it was ever a part of my life. But it was. It was a wonderful time filled with love, hope and promise.

Cancer changed everything immediately. Most of the changes weren't good; most of the experiences were quite difficult. We've learned that cancer forever transforms your life. But none of the items listed above are things I couldn't do now simply because I had cancer. 

This last point is what #Delhi2013 and A Fresh Chapter is all about. Yes, cancer was - and is - a really big deal. Although we all still experience varying levels of side effects, we are here and we can invest in building inspiring, powerful post-cancer lives. Cancer did not rob us of ourselves. We are here.

India day 3
Day 3 was dedicated to orientation on the NGOs we will serve. Unlike our expectations, our orientation began with picking up the volunteer coordinator in what is easily one of the nicest neighborhoods on this continent. (Think Bel-Air or Beverly Hills.) She took us to a large, lovely Montessori school not far from her home to tell us about the placement & serve chai and cookies on a terrace in the middle of the school. The children at the Montessori are graduates of the programs in the slums in which we'll be working. They still live in the slums and I was thrilled to see them learning in such a beautiful environment.

From there we went to the NGO in Okhla. It was a perfect juxtaposition of Indian wealth and poverty coexisting. As soon as we opened the car door at Okhla we all realized we had to walk across a dirt road that doubles as a sewer. I thought I knew what raw sewage smells like. I didn't.

We quickly passed through the gate to the community center & from then on all we heard was laughter and excited, whispered greetings, all we saw was women and boys with wide smiles in classrooms (the girls learn at a different location) (they also have a state-of-the-art computer lab several LA nonprofits I know would drool over), and all we felt was the joy of the people. During the debrief at Home Base the Country Director said this experience will teach us there are different ways of thinking about poverty. Yes, it will.

We were just there to meet people; the real work starts today. (Unfortunately, I will miss it as my lymphedema started bothering me again and I had to bandage myself last night. I'm hoping a day of rest will help.)

After lunch and an extended Hindi lesson, we were divided into teams and given an hour to accomplish tasks designed to make us feel more comfortable in the neighborhood.  The assignments:

Take the Metro three stops away (during rush hour), come back to Home Base. (This team had a man on it so they couldn't ride in the women-only car. The woman on the team was the only woman riding on the packed car - it was fine.)

Walk into town, find a taxi stand & negotiate some fares, then find an auto-ricks haw stand and negotiate a ride back to our community between 20-25 rupees. (They got back for 20 rupees, but when they realized he dropped them on the other side he refused to take them further.)

Walk into town and purchase eggs, potato chips and other groceries.

My favorite: walk into town, purchase bread, butter, cheese, tomato & cucumber, take them to your flat to make grilled cheese sandwiches, then find at least 5 people to whom you can give the sandwiches (they didn't negotiate much so they had to make them on hamburger buns, but they gave out 10 sandwiches - that was the hardest part!).

My team: walk into town and purchase stamps (the post office closed at 4 - before we left), cold medicine (we quickly found the pharmacy), and an international landline calling card. It was fascinating because we couldn't get a calling card. Indians have so completely embraced mobile technology that no one uses landlines. We visited upwards of fifteen to twenty shops. (We would have had no trouble finding an iPhone5 or Samsung Galaxy.) My favorite stop was the bankers who tried using Google on their iPhones to find a local shop that sells them. No luck. I felt like I was in 3 worlds at once.

No wonder the tourism agency here is called Incredible India.

Sunday, February 17, 2013

#Delhi2013 Dozen On the Town


One of the many lessons I am really starting to get about India is if you think you understand India, but you have never visited here (or any place like India that's really nearby), then you're almost certainly wrong. You can understand that there are differences and even investigate why those differences exist, but you don't get it until you're here for a very long time.

As I wrote that paragraph I thought about an Indian community in South LA County that Angel & I once visited with Sav and Neha. Literally all of the stores and restaurants sell Indian products, food or services. I recall thinking that this must be a little like how it is in India. 

It's not. At all. And the reason I can come up with in my infinitesimal knowledge is you can never assume anything is similar to India if it didn't have India's speed, energy, diversity with utter inclusion -there's rarely a choice, horns (oh my God, the horns) and the ever present knowledge that this is "normal" and it's not going to adjust to you or your needs.

 And why should it?

This blogging platform isn't letting me share pictures directly at the moment, but what's even better is on my Facebook page you'll find several pics that I and the others have taken as we tag and share posts. You can also see a lot by following @afreshchapter and @moonriderpro (our documentary filmmaker) on Instagram or Twitter.

It's getting late, so I'll bullet point today's highlights:

- When large numbers of people are trying to get to one place, they have no qualms about moving in and out of as many people they need in order to get to their destination faster. Several times I wasn't fast enough and I quickly found myself removed from anyone I know. There's no pushing or shoving, it's just how they get around. They drive EXACTLY the same way.

-  People like to get their pictures taken with Westerners. We definitely experienced this. We were told that it's because all fair-skinned Westerners are assumed to be rich British tourists and their families would feel honored for having members who met Brits.

- In orientation we learned that many in India, including well-educated women, dislike Western women due to the sexually revealing things they do in soap operas, TV, movies, and dance. There is a common impression that Western women are loose. (Apparently the 1960s Hippies caused a great deal of harm in this area because they embodied some of the same liberal morals that the Indians had already seen.)

- My favorite quote for the day: in India, the clock chases people. Westerners chase the clock. The group determined that the world would best function if we met in the middle. And when the Country Director wondered why anyone would need online dating - 'just go out and meet someone!' I realized this relationship to the  "clock" may have something to do with it.

There's more - a lot more - but I can't stay up all night!

Namaste

Saturday, February 16, 2013

First Day in #Delhi2013


My Bedroom Window from the Terrace

I can't believe I've been in Delhi for less than 24 hours. I'm already lying in bed stifling sobs, crying softly  so as not to disturb my roommates. In true #Delhi2013 style I'm not crying for me or what I've experienced through cancer. I'm crying because one roommate (Dr. Alex) shared a beautiful letter her daughter wrote about her experience with cancer. Yes, she fears prematurely losing someone she loves, but her letter describes how her mother's cancer inspired her to be a better person. (I'm not blog-savvy yet: http://convio.cancer.ca/site/TR/RelayForLife/RFL_ON_odd_?px=4062912&pg=personal&fr_id=13496)

Below follows a rough synopsis - I'm working on very little sleep here (more later) - of the trip to & arrival in Delhi.

LAX to DEL via LHR
I flew British Airways to London, then on to Delhi. The LAX customer service was pretty atrocious - it reminded me of stories I would hear about expats in London.  They even wouldn't issue a boarding pass to Delhi because Economy Premium was oversold by 10 seats.

My choice: fly to London and trust that I'll get a seat or call Mom & yell,  "turn around!" But as Angel often says of traveling to India, "you just have to say, "India, here I am!" I just didn't realize India would meet me at LAX.

I took the flight - I still wonder what they meant by "premium economy." (I'm thinking more like "God awful" and "don't plan to sleep - or use your tray if you're neighbor is resting on the cover.) 

Once I arrived in London everything changed. I didn't have to wait in the "queue" for my boarding pass - it was done in an instant. But the true coup de grace was the surprise upgrade to Business Class at the gate.

Champagne upon arrival at my seat? Check.
Scottish smoked salmon (again)? Check.
Seat that folds completely flat as a bed? Check mate - I was out like a light for 8 hours.

Accommodations

Our group is spread out amongst a community in South Central Delhi (well it is on the map, anyway). I learned during an afternoon walk in the rain (well, really slide around in the mud while trying to avoid getting hit by cars & motorcycles going every which way super fast while honking their horns*) that it is a protected community. I think it's a middle class area. This morning a hawker or two walked up the street and yelled about their items for sale - I have no idea what they were selling.

(*Today I heard whoever honks first has the right of way here. Is this true?)

I landed in one of the rooms with two other roommates - both Canadian. (I love that our group is heavily Canadian. Our countries don't socialize enough...)  We are on the second floor of a two-story flat that has its main floor on the third floor of our building. (Whew!) The stairs remind me of Jenn's 5th floor walk-up in Manhattan...

Losing My Old Self
Here's the funniest part - I keep getting lost. Tonight was the worst. My usually rock-solid sense of direction didn't follow me off the plane this morning.  In this environment you can't help but wonder the deeper meaning of something like this. Does this mean I lack direction? Or does this mean I have a mean case of an insidious non-drowsy jet lag? Or both?

Thank You
It's clear I and the #Delhi2013 Dozen are definitely going to have an intense, truly life changing experience here. Thank you to everyone who supported me every step of the way. You have no idea how hard I depended on my relationships to get me through treatment. I am still relying on you, and I am so grateful for your enthusiastic support.

Cecily
 P.S. I apologize for the lengthy post. And this doesn't even come close to all I wanted to tell you!

Sunday, October 7, 2012

Watch It

Today I finished watching the 4-hour Independent Lens documentary based on the book "Women Hold Up Half the Sky".  Although often quite difficult to watch, I also found many of the women and girls to be incredibly inspiring.  I think every woman should see it.  Anything else I can say about this documentary won't even come close to doing it justice.  Just watch it.

http://www.pbs.org/independentlens/half-the-sky/

Monday, October 1, 2012

#Delhi2013

#Delhi2013

A Fresh Chapter Foundation http://www.afreshchapter.com is organizing a two-week service learning trip for 12 cancer survivors to travel to New Delhi, India next February. The group will consist of a diverse mix of men and women who experienced everything from prostate cancer to leukemia to breast cancer. They will volunteer with local charities that serve people in desperate need. This post - my first since being diagnosed with, and receiving treatment for, Stage II breast cancer in 2011 - describes why I hope to be one of the 12 participants on this inaugural trip.

#Delhi2013 is about stepping out of my comfort zone to explore myself while simultaneously dedicating two weeks of my life to directly serving those who are truly in need. 

I live a life of service. My law practice - Sustainable Law Group - represents nonprofit organizations and socially-responsible and sustainable businesses. I also volunteer for several charities. Every day I help my clients make the world a better place. 

My work fulfills me, but it is one giant step removed from directly serving those in need. I know my guidance helps my clients achieve their laudable missions, but I'm completely insulated from interacting with the people they serve. That's where #Delhi2013 comes in. #Delhi2013 is a wildly different way of serving others in another world altogether. 

#Delhi2013 will also force me to directly confront my recent experience with cancer. During "active" treatment (i.e., surgeries, chemotherapy & Herceptin infusions), people often asked me if my experience with cancer completely changed my outlook on life. I know that cancer has had a great impact on me, but since diagnosis I distracted myself with treatment, advocacy and work. I never stepped back to consider the bigger picture.

#Delhi2013 will be my first endeavor as a cancer survivor, and I plan to use this time away to finally understand what my experience with cancer means to me. 

I wish to join the #Delhi2013 service learning trip because I can finally do something big that's just for me. I recently turned 40. On my birthday I decided to spend the second half of my life doing things I couldn't do during the first half. #Delhi2013 is the first big step towards keeping that most important promise. 

#Delhi2013 may be the greatest commitment I can make to myself in the next few years. At the same time, I wish to dedicate my participation to my friend Robert, who died two days ago at age 40 from liver cancer. Robert was a quiet leader who stood up for people confronting discrimination. #Delhi2013 is a beautiful way to further his legacy. 

If I am selected to participate I will be fundraising to support this adventure through a phenomenal new online platform at www.volunteerforever.com. Please let me know if you would like to help me achieve this dream. 

Peace and blessings. 

Thursday, October 16, 2008

McCain in the Membrane



With all the work travel and our annual fundraising luncheon next week things have been so hectic that I haven't had time to blog. However, this picture from last night's debate is so brilliant, I just had to post.

I promise there will be more to come in November!

Thursday, October 9, 2008

Wells Fargo Won!

WELLS FARGO’S MERGER WITH WACHOVIA TO PROCEED AS WHOLE COMPANY TRANSACTION
WITH ALL OF WACHOVIA’S BANKING OPERATIONS
Merger on schedule for completion by end of 4th quarter 2008

SAN FRANCISCO, October 9, 2008 -- Wells Fargo & Company (NYSE: WFC) said today that it and Citigroup, Inc. (NYSE: C) have terminated discussions concerning a possible sale of certain banking assets of Wachovia Corporation (NYSE: C) and reaffirmed that it is proceeding with its merger with Wachovia Corporation (NYSE:WB) as a whole company transaction with all of Wachovia’s banking and other operations, requiring no financial assistance from the Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation (FDIC) or any other government agency.

Wells Fargo has submitted its application to the Federal Reserve Board seeking expedited approval of the merger and the share exchange agreement previously entered into between Wachovia and Wells Fargo. Under the share exchange agreement, Wachovia is issuing Wells Fargo preferred stock that votes as a single class with Wachovia’s common stock representing 39.9 percent of Wachovia’s voting power. The acquisition of the non-banking related operations of Wachovia and the share exchange agreement have received early termination from the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), under the Hart-Scott-Rodino Act.

As previously announced, under the definitive agreement between the two companies, Wells Fargo will acquire all outstanding shares of common stock of Wachovia in a stock-for-stock transaction. In the transaction, Wells Fargo will acquire all of Wachovia Corporation and all its businesses and obligations, including its preferred equity and indebtedness, and all its banking deposits.

Wells Fargo Chairman Dick Kovacevich said the merger is “simply an incredible fit that will result in an immensely strong, stable financial services company that will carry on Wachovia’s proud tradition of being one of the very best financial institutions in the world. We’re combining the industry’s number one ranking customer service culture of Wachovia with the industry’s number one sales and cross-selling culture of Wells Fargo. The best in service and the best in sales, an unbeatable combination. We also bring to this merger our 157 years of experience in financial services and the unparalleled convenience we can offer Wachovia customers through one of the most extensive financial services distributions systems in North America. We have the highest regard for the quality and commitment and caring of Wachovia team members. We believe their demonstrated commitment to outstanding customer service and their highest standards of community leadership are identical to our own values.”

Kovacevich reiterated that the two companies have a firm, binding merger agreement, are confident the merger will be completed, that it will keep Wachovia intact and create significant value for Wachovia and Wells Fargo shareholders. Wells Fargo will record Wachovia’s credit-impaired assets at fair value. “Credit teams at Wells Fargo have had an opportunity to work with their counterparts at Wachovia,” said Kovacevich. “Much of Wachovia’s portfolio involves businesses where Wells Fargo has a significant market presence, operating history and expertise. We have had experience with such businesses through a variety of credit cycles. Given our broad based operating expertise, and specific understanding of these individual businesses we believe we have adequately evaluated the risks inherent in the portfolios as of the time of this merger agreement.”

In addition, Kovacevich said Wells Fargo is pleased that Citigroup announced that it is no longer seeking that the Wells Fargo-Wachovia Merger be enjoined. “We believe that that is the correct and right decision for our Country and our citizens and the health of our already stressed financial system, as well as our and Wachovia’s respective shareholders and stakeholders,” said Kovacevich.

"We are delighted to stride ahead with Wells Fargo in creating a coast-to-coast financial institution -- one of the strongest financial firms in the world," said Wachovia Corporation President and CEO Robert K. Steel.

The combined company will have $1.42 trillion in assets, $787 billion in deposits, 48 million customers, $258 billion assets under management in mutual funds, 10, 761 stores, 12,227 ATMs and 280,000 team members. The merger will create the nation’s premier coast-to-coast community banking presence with community banks in 39 states and the District of Columbia. Wachovia will add the following banking stores, ATMs and deposits to the combined company (Stores/ATMs as of 9/30/08; U.S. Deposits 6/30/08):

Banking stores ATMs Deposits (billions)

Alabama 141 178 $8.8
Arizona 21 44 2.7
California 193 255 37.1
Colorado 34 35 4.8
Connecticut 74 105 7.4
Delaware 20 37 3.4
Florida 712 963 71.1
Georgia 277 653 27.8
Illinois 8 9 .9
Kansas 8 8 1.2
Maryland 80 116 7.5
Mississippi 13 20 .5
North Carolina 325 649 96.2
Pennsylvania 294 457 30.9
Nevada 6 26 19.0
New Jersey 312 468 28.4
New York 84 183 15.1
South Carolina 143 275 11.7
Tennessee 17 20 .5
Texas 241 290 14.1
Virginia 290 443 25.9
Washington D.C. 32 66 6.9
Total 3325 5300 $422

The combined company will be #1 in deposit market share * in 17 of its 39 Community Banking states: Alaska, Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Georgia, Idaho Minnesota, Iowa, Montana, Nebraska, New Jersey, New Mexico, North Carolina, South Dakota, Texas, and Virginia. Ninety-three percent of its deposits will be in states in which it ranks #1, 2 or 3 and the combined company will rank #1 in ten of the nation’s 20 largest Metropolitan Statistical Areas (MSAs) in deposit market share. *
* excludes deposits greater than $500 million in a single banking store

Wells Fargo also is the nation’s:
  • #1 small business lender,
  • #1 agricultural lender,
  • #1 commercial real estate broker,
  • #2 largest mortgage originator,
  • #2 largest mortgage servicer,
  • #2 largest debit card issuer,
  • #1 financial services provider to middle market businesses in the western U.S and a national presence in commercial banking (29 states),
  • largest bank-owned U.S. insurance brokerage

Wells Fargo & Company is a diversified financial services company with $609 billion in assets, providing banking, insurance, investments, mortgage and consumer finance through almost 6,000 stores and the internet (wellsfargo.com) across North America and elsewhere internationally. Wells Fargo Bank, N.A. is the only bank in the U.S., and one of only two banks worldwide, to have the highest possible credit rating from both Moody’s Investors Service, “Aaa,” and Standard & Poor’s Ratings Services, “AAA.”

FORWARD-LOOKING STATEMENTS
This news release contains forward-looking statements about Wells Fargo and Wachovia and the proposed transaction between the companies. There are several factors – many beyond Wells Fargo’s control – that could cause actual results to differ significantly from expectations described in the forward-looking statements. Among these factors are the receipt of necessary regulatory approvals and the approval of Wachovia shareholders. Forward-looking statements speak only as of the date they are made, and we do not undertake any obligation to update them to reflect changes that occur after that date.

For a discussion of factors that may cause actual results to differ from expectations, refer to each company’s Quarterly Report on Form 10-Q for the quarter ended June 30, 2008, and Annual Report on Form 10-K for the year ended December 31, 2007, including information incorporated into each company’s 10-K from their respective 2007 annual reports, filed with the Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) and available on the SEC’s website at www.sec.gov.

MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE MERGER AND WHERE TO FIND IT
The proposed merger will be submitted to Wachovia Corporation shareholders for their consideration. Wells Fargo will file with the Securities and Exchange Commission (“SEC”) a registration statement on Form S-4 that will include a proxy statement of Wachovia Corporation that also constitutes a prospectus of Wells Fargo. Wachovia Corporation will mail the proxy statement-prospectus to its shareholders. Wachovia shareholders and other investors are urged to read the final proxy statement-prospectus when it becomes available because it will describe the proposed merger and contain other important information. You may obtain copies of all documents filed with the SEC regarding the proposed merger, free of charge, at the SEC’s website (www.sec.gov). You may also obtain free copies of these documents by contacting Wells Fargo or Wachovia, as follows:

Wells Fargo & Company, Attention Corporate Secretary, MAC N9305-173, Sixth and Marquette, Minneapolis, Minnesota 55479, (612) 667-0087.

Wachovia Corporation, Investor Relations, One Wachovia Center, 301 South College Street, Charlotte, North Carolina 28288, (704) 374-6782

Wells Fargo and Wachovia and their respective directors and executive officers may be deemed to be participants in the solicitation of proxies from Wachovia Corporation shareholders in connection with the proposed merger. Information about Wells Fargo’s directors and executive officers and their ownership of Wells Fargo common stock is contained in the definitive proxy statement for Wells Fargo’s 2008 annual meeting of stockholders, as filed by Wells Fargo with the SEC on Schedule 14A on March 17, 2008. Information about Wachovia’s directors and executive officers and their ownership of Wachovia common stock is contained in the definitive proxy statement for Wachovia’s 2008 annual meeting of shareholders, as filed by Wachovia with the SEC on Schedule 14A on March 10, 2008. You may obtain a free copy of these documents by contacting Wells Fargo or Wachovia at the contact information provided above. The proxy statement-prospectus for the proposed merger will provide more information about participants in the solicitation of proxies from Wachovia Corporation shareholders.

Saturday, October 4, 2008

The Citi Never Sleeps?

When I was growing up in the NY Metro area we were constantly bombarded with the jingle, "the Citi never sleeps, Citibank." Well guess who got a rude wake-up call yesterday!

This household has some very close personal ties to Wachovia, which may seem odd since Wachovia is such a new-comer to California. Needless to say, there was a whole lot of praying in this household last weekend. When we received the announcement (soon after one of the three times Zap had to get up for work at 5:30 a.m. this week) we were bummed because Citi doesn't have the best reputation for community relations leadership in CA, but we have ties there & felt satisfied that we'd be all right.

Then, all of a sudden on Thursday night, Zap just couldn't sleep. He tossed & turned for a long time & then got up to surf the web & try to quiet his mind. Nothing spectacular happened on Thursday, but for some reason that night he just couldn't rest. On Friday morning (the second time Zap had to get up for work at 5:30 this week -- so that's right, this a.m. he had to get up at 5:30 for work and yes, it's Saturday) he learned that Wells Fargo made a competing bid (against a closed deal) & Wachovia was up for grabs. So while he was inexplicably restless, Wachovia was switching suitors. Coincidence? We think not.

Overall we're much happier with the prospect of the Wells merger. They're California-based and have a long, successfuly community relations track record. And believe you me, that goes a long way in this household. According to this morning's LA Times, Citi doesn't have a case if Wells & Wachovia didn't talk before Wells submitted its larger bid. The word on the street is Wells came up with its larger offer after it had the time to review Wachovia's entire portfolio, with which it was presented in the heat of the moment last weekend. So the chances are looking pretty good that Wells & Wachovia didn't communicate.



Zap thinks he'll look good in a cowboy hat. I tend to agree.

Grand Avenue Festival

It's been such a crazy week - more on that later - that I haven't been able to post about last Sunday's Grand Avenue Festival. The Grand Avenue Festival is by far our favorite LA festival (not that there are many to choose from). It's held every year on the first Sunday of autumn in the Grand Avenue Arts District (note: I just made up that name) - from the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), past Disney Hall (with RedCat - the CalARTS theater in Downtown), the Music Center (the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion, the newly renovated Mark Taper Forum & the Ahmanson Theater) & down Temple to the Cathedral Plaza. All of these venues offer free shows for the public all day long. There's also a tent on Grand Ave. for a drum circle & recitals, mariachi at the Cathedral (I'm so sorry we missed that this year) & arts & crafts for kids on the Music Center Plaza.

Zap, Zapita & I met up with one of Zapita's classmates & her father for an afternoon of arts & crafts, pizza & a few shows. On the way to lunch we listened to the Oaxacan Youth Band & watched the folklorico dancers again. After lunch we attended a special effects demonstration that Herbert Siguenza of Culture Clash ably hosted at the Mark Taper Forum, which looks much better after the two-year renovation. Here's one of the characters that was cruising the festival, encouraging people to attend the demonstration:


After the demonstration we headed over to RedCat to hear the CalARTS Latin Jazz Band perform. Everyone in the band is a current student at CalARTS (except the piano player - their teacher). They were amazing -- especially considering the fact that they first started playing together two weeks ago. Although Zap & I weren't as impressed by the vocalists, Zapita loved the woman on the left who sang one of Celia Cruz's standards.


After the Latin Jazz Band it was time to go home, but on the way out of RedCat we found a bunch of CalARTS students had made pastel pictures on the sidewalk between Grand & Hope. Bloody Mary was my favorite & is now my profile pic on Facebook.


In all it was a really fun day. I often leave the festival wondering why LA doesn't have more festivals like this each year. One thing I loved about living in SF was each district had a street festival every summer, so pretty much every weekend you could attend a festival. Also, those were especially fun because each festival reflected the culture within that district. Now that Downtown LA has experienced a renaissance there's a fantastic arts culture there, although the Grand Avenue Festival really only represents the establishment arts complex in the area. I often hear about art walks and other events in Downtown, but I'd love to see the galleries in the area organize a street festival to showcase other elements of the area. And we need a festival here in the Melrose District too.

Monday, September 29, 2008

I Like Ben Stein's Thinking on This One...

September 28, 2008
Everybody’s Business

In Financial Food Chains, Little Guys Can’t Win

IMAGINE, if you will, that a man who had much to do with creating the present credit crisis now says he is the man to fix this giant problem, and that his work is so important that he will need a trillion dollars or so of your money. Then add that this man thinks he is so indispensable that he wants Congress to forbid any judicial or administrative questioning of anything he does with your dollars.

You might think of a latter-day Lenin or Fidel Castro, but you would be far afield. Instead, you should be thinking of Treasury Secretary Henry M. Paulson Jr. and the rapidly disintegrating United States of America, right here and now.

But I am getting ahead of myself. First, I am furious at what the traders, speculators, hedge funds and the government have done to everyone who is saving and investing for retirement and future security. Millions of us did nothing wrong, according to the accepted wisdom of the age. We saved. We put a large part of our money into the stock market, as we were urged to do. Because the market wasn’t at ridiculously high levels, it seemed prudent to invest in broad indexes, foreign indexes and small- and large-cap indexes.

Now we have had the rug pulled out from under us. Our retirements have been put into severe jeopardy. The “earnings” part of those price-to-earnings ratios turns out to have been fiction for some financial companies, which normally account for a big part of total corporate earnings. In fact, earnings of giant finance players were often wildly negative, creating a situation rarely seen since the Great Depression, when the aggregate earnings of the Dow 30 were negative.

The current negativity occurred because of wild, casino-type operations of big finance players, creating liabilities way beyond anything we could have reasonably expected. This looks a lot like theft on a spectacular scale — of our wallets, our peace of mind, our futures.

Second, according to what I hear from my betters in the world of finance, the most serious problems are not with the bundles of subprime mortgages themselves — a large but not lethal quantum as far as I can tell — but with derivatives contracts tied to subprime and other dicey debt. These contracts are superficially an attempt to “insure” against risks of default, hence the name “credit-default swaps.” In fact, they are an immense wager — which anyone with lots of money or borrowing ability can enter — about how mortgage-backed bonds, leveraged loan bonds, student loan bonds, credit card bonds and the like will perform.

These wagers entail amounts many times larger than the total of subprime loans. In fact, there are roughly $62 trillion in credit-default swap derivatives out there, compared with about $1 trillion of subprime mortgages. These derivatives are “weapons of financial mass destruction,” in the prophetic words of Warren E. Buffett. (Apparently believing that the worst is over, at least for one big investment bank, Mr. Buffett is now investing in Goldman Sachs.)

The swaps market has been unregulated. It has been just a lot of people making bets with one another. Some of them made incredibly fortunate payoff wagers against the mortgage bonds, using credit-default swaps as their wagering vehicle. I am not sure who the big winners are, but they are out there, and the gains were big enough to cripple the part of Wall Street on the losing side of the bets.

Almost no one (except Mr. Buffett) saw this coming, at least not on this scale. But let’s get back to the man of the hour. Why didn’t Mr. Paulson, the Treasury secretary, see it? He was once the head of Goldman Sachs, an immense player in the swaps world. Didn’t people at Treasury have a clue? If they didn’t, what was going on in their heads? If they did, why didn’t they do something about it a year ago, when saving the world would have been a lot cheaper?

If Mr. Paulson and Ben S. Bernanke, the chairman of the Federal Reserve, didn’t see this train coming, what else have they missed? What other freight train is barreling down the track at us?

All of this would be bad enough. But by far the most terrifying item I read in my morning paper last week was this: Mr. Paulson demanded that Congress forbid judicial review of his decisions on use of the money in the mortgage bailout. This would amount to an abrogation of the Constitution. Not only would his decisions be sacrosanct and above the law, but so would the actions of his pals in the banking world in connection with this bailout.

The people whose conduct got us into this catastrophe have not only taken our money, hopes and peace of mind, but they apparently also want a trillion or so more dollars to put into their Wall Street Buddy System Fund. This may be the most dangerous attack on the law in my lifetime. What anarchists even dared consider this plan? Thank heaven that minds more devoted to the Constitution on Capitol Hill are questioning this shocking request.

By the way, if we are actually thinking about tossing the Constitution out the window, why not simply annul these credit-default swap contracts? With that done, the incomprehensibly large liability of the banks would cease, and we wouldn’t need this staggering bailout. Shouldn’t we consider making the speculators pay some of the price?

WE have survived housing-price corrections before. Why is this one causing so much anguish? It must be the side bets, the credit-default swap bets, multiplying the effect of the housing downturn many times over. Maybe we should just get rid of these exotic bets and start again without them. “Insurance” on market moves is always a bad idea, because it does not tamp down market disruptions but instead greatly magnifies them — as in the disastrous effect of “portfolio insurance” in the 1987 crash.

Then there was Mr. Paulson’s insistence that there be no compensation caps for executives of companies being bailed out by the factory workers, the farmers, the schoolteachers and the medical doctors. He told a skeptical Congress on Tuesday that if these caps were put into place, bank executives simply wouldn’t participate in the bailout or sell us suckers their debts. Fine with me. If the banks are in good enough shape so that petulant executives can simply opt out rather than live on a few million a year, maybe we don’t need the bailout at all. Maybe we would be better off if those executives simply bailed out and were replaced by people with more sense and more patriotism.

One final little thought bubbles into my mind: Maybe the bailout should not be of the banks at all, but of homeowners themselves. Maybe if we make the government the buyer of last resort of homes, we will stabilize the markets, stabilize the debt associated with the markets and take the gain out of the credit-default swaps for the speculators. Yes, price would be a huge issue, but so it is for Mr. Paulson’s plan for buying debt from banks.

Why not? We do it for farmers. Why not for the individual homeowner? Oh, right. Because Treasury secretaries don’t know any of those people.

Ben Stein is a lawyer, writer, actor and economist. E-mail: ebiz@nytimes.com.

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